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# San Francisco
- URL: https://sheholds.com/san-francisco/
- Published: 2026-07-12T15:06:41.000Z
- Updated: 2026-08-03T12:22:27.000Z
- Description: On expanding horizons and closing distance.
- Author: Lai Yin 麗賢
- Tags: Travel 旅行, Marriage 婚姻, USA, North America

By the time we were riding south on Highway 1,  
he on a blue,  
me on a pearl-white Heritage Softail,  
we had taxied from SFO to the Fairmont,  
I had my space arranged,  
he had organised dinner,  
Omakase **お任せ** at a tiny sushi counter,  
his left hand on my right thigh,  
my leg pressing into his.  
I stir wasabi into his soy sauce.  
I ask him, "Are you full?"

We got up early,  
left our luggage with the concierge,  
passed the figure-eight test at Dudley Perkins,  
purchased helmets,  
T-shirts,  
gloves,  
boots for me.

Headed south,  
rode around Half Moon Bay,  
dismounted,  
for pancakes at a diner in the woods,  
for ocean spray at Mavericks,  
for selfies at Pigeon Point.

---

By the time we checked in at the lodge at Pebble Beach,  
the Pacific Ocean stretched to the horizon, sparkling blue,  
endless far, far away.  
[Hawaii](https://sheholds.com/hawaii/) somewhere out there west, on my right,  
where he had met me for our Honeymoon,  
where he had bought two pregnancy tests from different brands,  
where  
the plus in blue,  
the plus in pink,  
appeared,  
almost a year after we [lost](https://sheholds.com/on-miscarriage/) our first,  
months after our wedding.

Where he and I spent days riding Harleys on Kauaʻi,  
posing in front of waterfalls and clouds of mist,  
where he and I had spent days on Oʻahu’s North Shore, unrushed.

We had left the girls,  
one just six,  
one just five,  
at home with their nanny,  
crossed the [USA](https://sheholds.com/tag/usa/),  
New York  
Washington  
Chicago  
Las Vegas  
San Francisco  
Carmel.

By the time we got to Big Sur,  
we had a Californian menu,  
sipped wine, blends red, rich, full.

In our room,

I left him deep asleep,  
my bum pressing into the small of his back,  
until morning.

We rinsed and showered,  
went for breakfast,  
him getting a flat white for me,  
a macchiato for him,  
me bringing  
juices,  
eggs,  
pancakes,  
[croissants](https://sheholds.com/paris/),  
bacon,  
salmon teriyaki,  
yoghurt,  
from the American buffet breakfast.  
Bombastic, endless, rich,  
served with kisses on his neck.

We kept heading south,  
talking about riding all the way to Shutters on the Beach,  
where years earlier I had called him and said,  
*“I think, I’m pregnant.”*  
We never made it.  
We turned back north.

In Carmel we parked the bikes close to the ocean,  
walked the main street,  
holding hands  
fingers entwined.

In Carmel we lunched,  
purchased Moroccan pottery,  
purchased a reindeer for Christmas we called "Dopey".

By the time we returned the bikes to Dudley Perkins**,**  
we had posed with a one-off custom bike in Santa Cruz,  
ridden Highway 1 through Miramar,  
climbed the hills of San Francisco,  
crossed the Bay Bridge to Berkeley,  
circled the Bay,  
Berkeley,  
San Quentin,  
Sausalito,  
looked down on the Golden Gate Bridge from the viewpoint,  
ridden through a tunnel,  
onto the bridge,  
into the wind buffeting me,  
pushing against my bike,  
the steel grating shifting beneath my tyres,  
boats tiny, beneath the bridge,  
trucks towering behind, close,  
him riding ahead,  
not fast,  
not slow,  
calculating,  
his taillight,  
like a lighthouse guiding me to shore.

---

By the time we had lunch at Alioto’s on Fisherman’s Wharf,  
fish.  
Citrus.  
Cold white plates.  
Harbour wind.  
Tables facing the water.  
Boats sliding past,  
mooring,  
unmooring.

We had returned to the Fairmont.

In the morning we had discovered San Francisco  
on foot,  
by public transport.  
Just like home in Hong Kong,  
the trams,  
the cable cars  
teleported us back in time.

From Powell,  
to California,  
to Hyde  
and back.

Sometimes seated.  
Sometimes riding the planks.  
Sometimes hanging on with one hand,  
my other holding his arm.

Every high point in the city  
was like looking through a telescope.  
The bridges.  
The bay.  
The rows of painted houses.  
Alcatraz.

At sea level,  
we squeezed through a World War II submarine,  
walked the decks of an old Navy ship.

The sea breeze had me tie my hair into a ponytail.

We rode back into the city  
in an ancient tram car transplanted from Melbourne.

By the time we had dinner in Chinatown,  
we’d been to the farmers market at the Embarcadero.  
Produce as fresh as France.  
Wine shops.  
[Lavender](https://sheholds.com/provence/) honey.  
Soaps.  
Ocean salt.  
Colour everywhere,  
like Rue Montorgueil,  
only covered,  
by the bay.

I said to him,  
*“This city feels like* [*Sydney*](https://sheholds.com/sydney/) *in France.”*

We ate at the same restaurant  
two evenings in a row.

Hak jiu chao haai, 黑椒炒蟹,  
wok hei deep,  
like [my father](https://sheholds.com/my-father/)'s.  
Yu heung ka chi, 魚香茄子,  
no fish.  
Ma po dou fu, 麻婆豆腐,  
hot and fiery.

Me always saying,

*“Do you mind if we go back to Chinatown?* 
*I know these aren’t your gweilo dishes, BB,* 
*but do you mind if I order them anyway?”*

He never objected.  
He never objects.

The Go lou yuk, 咕嚕肉**,**  
crisp, sticky, sweet,  
was excellent too.

We wandered through a home interior shop.

Dining sets for twenty.  
Antique cinema seating.  
Candelabras for castle halls.  
Tapestries for castle walls.  
Taxidermy.

On our last night  
we had ceviche on the Embarcadero,  
lime sharp on my tongue,  
harbour salt in the air,  
margaritas cold,  
glasses dripping wet with condensation.

By the time we took off from SFO  
on a Cathay flight,  
bound for HKG,  
bound for home,

I'd held him deep another night,  
I'd sent each daughter a postcard.

---

[Alphaville - Forever Young by Alphaville](https://neverenoughrecords.bandcamp.com/album/alphaville-forever-young) 

---

Author's note:  
  
Both Alioto’s and Dudley Perkins have since shut their doors permanently.